An Interview with Kaelen Haworth

Photo Credits: KAELEN S/s '12 Presentation via 2.bp; all other photos - Courtesy of KAELEN

Toronto native Kaelen Haworth launched her namesake brand, KAELEN, in 2010 after working for Stella McCartney, Jenni Kayne and MTV. The New York-based designer's spring 2012 collection has an ethereal, folkloric feel to it with a hint of something darker.

Kaelen Haworth of KAELEN talks about the inspiration behind her spring collection, favorite songs at the moment, and style icons in an exclusive interview with Young Sophisticates.

YS: How did your time working at Jenni Kayne and Stella McCartney shape you as a designer?

Kaelen: Both companies were very different, so being at both helped me a lot. It was really helpful for me to understand the growth of a business and how I would want my company to evolve. I have so much respect for both companies both in their aesthetics and also their business direction.

YS: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Kaelen: My design aesthetic is definitely modern, and I focus a lot on fabrics and textures, so it has a lot of depth in that regard. I like to experiment with asymmetry, proportion etc. so the silhouettes are often a little ‘off’ or different. I like to keep things on the cleaner side so that the pieces can be very personal to the wearer. I want the person who wears my clothes to feel as though it was effortless to get dressed.

YS: What’s your fall uniform?

Kaelen: I don’t really have a fall uniform, because I think fall is the best season for trying new things and switching it up because you get such a plethora of temperatures and weather. I usually make the switch to pants and long skirts, and I always love a scarf. Sweaters I wear year-round, but they get bigger and more prevalent in fall because there is a short window. In the winter, I can’t wear outrageously big and chunky sweaters because they mess up my outerwear game.

YS: Do you only wear your own designs? What other designers do you like to wear?

Kaelen: I don’t only wear my designs. Firstly, I haven’t been around long enough to cover every eventuality in dressing. Second, I love fashion and find it very inspiring, and I appreciate other designers so much. I think you also have to be able to appreciate and get excited about a different point of view.

I love Rick Owens, A Détacher, Isabel Marant, Current/Elliott for denim, and Electric Feathers.

YS: KAELEN Spring 2012 collection has a very ethereal, folkloric feel to it – almost reminiscent of a woodland nymph. At the same time, there’s a hint of something

darker going on. How would you describe your Spring/Summer 2012 collection?

Kaelen: You pretty much nailed it! It is softer than past seasons, both in color but also in silhouette. I carried over some things that people responded very well to (pleating, strong prints etc.) and took it into a more feminine realm. I like taking something very feminine by nature and taking the frill or girliness out of it. Like the bias dress with the ink blot print. To me, it’s feminine without being too sweet.

YS: What was the inspiration behind the spring collection?

Kaelen: I was feeling a little more romantic than I had in the past, and I wanted it to be very airy and beautiful but not without depth. I wanted it to feel a little haunted in a way that you couldn’t quite put your finger on.

YS: In terms of color palette, the spring collection consists of mainly cream and nude. Are you normally drawn to a neutral color palette?

Kaelen: I’m learning that about myself, yes. I always have these big color aspirations, but I respond so much more to a tonal color story. I love color, it just has to fit into what I’m feeling without being forced. I think I prefer brighter colors in the fall as opposed to the spring collections, which seems a bit backward now that I think about it.

YS: What was your favorite piece in the spring collection?

Kaelen: I loved the cropped macrame top with the floor length fringe (pictured at left). It’s definitely a challenge, but that is what I love about it. Also there is a lot you can do with that much fringe. The options are endless.

YS: What was the most challenging piece to design in the spring collection?

Kaelen: The print pieces were tough. Placing a print on a garment was challenging because the print was large, the fabric was narrow, the silhouette had to change a bit. But it worked out for the best, I think. It ended up being better than what I had originally planned for.

YS: What kind of woman wears your clothes?

Kaelen: The woman who wears my clothes has a strong sense of personal style and is not easily swayed by trends. That said, she’s experimental and open to changing things up.

YS: Who are your style icons?

Kaelen: Lauren Bacall is one - I like that she always looks powerful. She didn’t dilute things with a ton of accessories and always looked impeccable. Right now I also love Florence Welch. I find musicians really inspiring. Their style is more tangible because you get a complete sense of it from the music, the videos and even the stage presence.

YS: What are some of your favorite songs, at the moment?

Kaelen: Charlotte Gainsbourg - Terrible Angels, Kanye & Jay Z - The Joy, Florence + The Machine - Shake it out, Fleetwood Mac - Never Going Back Again, Robyn - Call Your Girlfriend, Feist - The Bad in Each Other, The Rapture - It Takes Time to be a Man. I need new music though - I’m a serious music fanatic and I need to find new stuff constantly. Totally open to suggestions!

YS: Before attending Parsons School of Design, you received a degree in English literature. What are some of your favorite books?

Kaelen: East of Eden, The Great Gatsby, Shantaram, A Separate Peace, The Shadow Lines. I’m a huge book nerd. I love to read. I’ll read when I get home from a bar at 3 am. I honestly think there are few things in this world that are better than a good book.

YS: You’re wearing awesome glasses in your Twitter profile picture (@kaelenNYC). Do you wear those on a daily basis out of necessity, or are they a fashion statement?

Kaelen: Thank you! They are both a necessity and a fashion statement. I have pretty bad eyesight. But I love wearing glasses and have a million pairs, so it works out ok.